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How to (bus)

Install 55-67 dropped spindles.

Install pre 67 off set spring plates.

Install type 1 IRS in your bus.

Install a narrowed beam.

Install 68-79 dropped spindles.

How to machine pre 63 rear bus drums to work on type one brakes.

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55-67 Drop spindle install

     
                   

When installing flipped dropped spindles for early buses there is always some confusion, it is usually because the king pin now needs to be rotated 180 degrees from stock, the spindle itself will stay in the same position.

It is the kingpin that is inverted up side down in the spindle (refer to image B).

So when the king gets flipped it must also be rotated 180 degrees in order to maintain properly positioned link pins and caster offset.

Here are a few things to help you install your dropped spindles.

Of course you will need to remove the stock spindles drums brakes ECT Refer to a buddy or manual.

Refer to image (A)
#1 the king pin locking bolt needs to be on the bus side of the king pin.
#2 the brake line must now be at the bottom of the backing plate, so this means you must rotate your backing plate up side down. (No need to remove and reinstall break components just rotate the backing plate).
#3 All Wagenswest flipped dropped spindles have inverted tie rod tapers that are retro fitted for post 69 tie rod ends. (Tie rod ends Install upside down)

Refer to image (B)
In this image you will see a diagram of a stock spindle and if you touch it with your pointer it will rollover and show you a drop spindle diagram.

this image has A, B, C and D Arrows that are pointing at shims in-between each side of the link pins. These shims are used to help the link pin move with less friction and to true up any difference in the off set of the trailing arm position verses the king pins position.

(These shims are not here to set or adjust the camber; camber/caster is preset from the factory if your camber is off you probably have a bigger problem).

Refer to image (C)
This image shows you the amount of spacer shims needed to properly mate your spindles to the trailing arms.
You will first need to measure how much more the bottom trailing arm protrudes from the beam than the top one it is usually 3 -8 mm more than the top.

You can usually measure this with a straight ruler laid across the bottom trailing arm shim surface pointing up over the top trailing arm shim surface.

You can use image (B) in correlation with image (C) to determine the amount of shims needed.
         
 
A  
 
         
B  
 
         
      C            
   
      Pre 67 off set spring plates.    
               
       
               
         
               
        Type 1 IRS in your bus.        
                 
     

Our IRS kit is really simple.

Except for custom trailing arm shackles and spring plates this kit uses all stock type one IRS rear end parts.

If you don't feel like buying our parts feel free to use this info to do it your self.

To start you will need the Wagenswest IRS shackles and custom cut bus spring plates with spacers. You will also need to round up a set of type one trailing arms, stock axles, and transmission you also need all of the fasteners/nuts and bolts used on the bug.

Some things to consider #1 removing the gas tank, #2 you will need to relocate the heater cables to make room for CV joints, #3 you will need to relocate your brake lines to make room for the trailing arm shackles, I am sure you will find a couple more.

Image #1 You will need to trim your trailing arms ware they mount to the spring plates at about a 45 degree angle as seen in the picture, the reason you will need to trim this part is to keep it from hitting the torsion housing because the trailing arms will now be bolted to the inside of the spring plates. The trailing arms now bolt on the inside of the spring plates this is because the bus spring plates sit farther apart than the bug and we want to use stock axles as well as be able to run aluminum wheels IE BRM's ECT. The spacer plate that we provide goes in between the spring plate and trailing arm.

Image #2 You will need to trim some of the under carriage as seen marked in the picture (if you don't plan on totally slamming the bus you don't need to fully notch the top frame you can get away with just trimming the lip) You will need to trim on both side's but Before you notch out the passenger side you will want to pull back the wiring harness so you don't sever it (not fun) If you do end up fully notching the top frame rail you may want to box the open frame in as seen in image #3.

Image #4 when installing the trailing arm shackles you will want to push them as close to the frame horns as possible and set them at a slight upward angle, later you may want to adjust your camber by increasing or decreasing this angle.

Now you should be ready to bolt on your trailing arms and spring plates, I have found that the best way to set the height rite is to eyeball the spring plates and mount everything loosely set the bus on the ground and roll it back and forth with your buddy in the back to simulate the weight of the motor, if you like how it sits bolt it up, if not adjust it again.

If you have a question email help@wagenswest.com

     
   
           
         
         
           
         
           
       
       
           
A narrowed beam.
       
               
     
68-79 dropped spindles.
  
               
                     
How to machine pre 1963 bus rear drums to work on long axle type1 or IRS brakes.